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The new rules of socks: novelty ones are out

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Socks have become an area of diplomacy and woke-signalling – the Canadian prime minister Justin Trudeau is perhaps the biggest name to use socks in this way, choosing pointedly themed ones for public occasions. Or a telling insight into a political mind: Boris Johnson was criticised recently for not washing his lucky socks, emblazoned with a ruler of the Neo-Assyrian empire King Ashurbanipal, often enough.

In fashion, statement Women's Socks have been big for a few years. In 2017, kicked off by the Vetements’ socks with the DHL logo teeT-shirt, they became “the most loaded accessory of the year”, according to the GQ columnist Justin Myers. Prada played with pulling socks up to men’s knees and, thanks to logomania, socks have become a more affordable way for fashion fans to conspicuously buy into their favourite designer labels.

If none of this is ringing any bells, then it might mean it’s time to reassess your sock game. This is where the rules come in, because, in the words of Monica Geller from Friends: “Rules help control the fun.”

 

What kind of socks should I be wearing now?

What kind of socks would you like to wear? Given the proliferation of styles, there is a good sock option for everyone. According to the stylist Bemi Shaw, you can never go wrong with a sports sock. “They add a bit of edge to a basic outfit and make streetwear look more authentic.”

A Matisse-bright pair, like you’ll find at Arket, is an easy way to elevate a thrown-on outfit. At John Lewis, according to Elena Bergonzi, a fashion accessories buyer, classic sport Kids Socks are proving popular, “but also glitter and animal prints for the fashion-forward customer”.

 

Is it ever OK to wear socks with sandals?

To this, the answer is a definite: Yes. But again, make clear it is deliberate. As the sock-styling expert and Man Repeller journalist Harling Ross has noted, explicit coordination makes it clear that any unusual use of accessories is intentional. If you’re feeling a bit hesitant, see the sophisticated version of the socks and sandals look as touted at the most recent Agnona show. Baby Socks were paired with sandals of the same shade or just a little different; a subtler way to dip a toe. Or, one step up: look to the styling of duck-egg-blue socks with navy-blue sandals at spring/summer 2020 Sies Marjan menswear show.

 

Should I wear my socks pulled up?

“Is there another way to wear your socks?” Shaw asks. For her, pulling them up “looks the best but also avoids the awkward bunching that can look like cankles”.

There’s an easy sartorial win to be had for men in shorts and sports socks just by pulling them up – but be sure to look like you mean it. Charlie Teasdale, Esquire’s style director, also thinks Function Socks should be pulled up “in any vaguely formal situation” – he even suggests, “if you were so inclined”, investing in some sock suspenders. 

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